Virtual Magazine of Morocco on the Web
Morocco Week in Review 
July 19, 2008

USAID complete 50 years of partnership with Morocco.
18/07/2008

The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) has completed 50 years of cooperation with the Moroccan government. The United States Agency for International Development (USAID), an independent US Government agency that provides economic, development and humanitarian assistance around the world, has celebrated 50 years of partnership with the Government of Morocco.

On April 2, 1957, the United States and Morocco entered into an agreement under which the United States undertook to provide a programme of economic and technical assistance to Morocco."Since then, the American people have invested over 2 billion dollars (equivalent to 10 billion in current currency in 2007 dollars) in the human, economic and institutional development of Morocco," said a press release of the agency.

Under its long partnership with the Moroccan Government, USAID has helped many Moroccans to improve their living conditions, while working jointly with government agencies, civil society organizations and the private sector. Over the fifty-year relationship, the most notable successes have come in agriculture and agribusiness, health, primary education, housing and urban development, microfinance, small and medium enterprise growth, and water management.

“As Morocco has developed and its needs have evolved, so has the nature of the collaboration between Morocco and the United States. Cooperation continues, with the mutual goal of building an educated, democratic Moroccan nation that is competitive in the global marketplace,” added the release.

USAID's programmers include activities in three main areas: Democracy/ Governance, Education and Workforce Development, and Economic Growth. “Our portfolio includes a number of activities. For example, under economic growth, we have the Integrated Agriculture and Agribusiness projects, which work in several regions to develop value-chains, from the field to the market," underlined USAID director Monica Stein-Olson, in an interview with Morocco Business News. She added that under education, “our activities aim at improving the quality and relevance of basic education; we also work to improve the employability of students to make their learning more relevant to the needs of the job market.”

With the signing of the Morocco-US Free Trade Agreement, USAID has helped a number of public and private organisations take full advantage of the FTA. “Over the next five years, USAID support to economic growth will focus on policy reforms to further improve the business environment in Morocco. USAID also expects to continue support to agricultural policy and complement work funded by the Millennium Challenge Corporation,” stressed the USAID's director.
http://www.moroccobusinessnews.com/Content/Article.asp?idr=22&id=281
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Interview with USAID Director: Friendship, partnership define Moroccan-American history
18/07/2008

Friendship, partnership and cooperation have long defined the history of the peoples of the United States of America and Morocco, said USAID director Monica Stein-Olson, in an interview with Morocco Business News. The following is the interview:

How do you evaluate the history of Moroccan-American cooperation?
Friendship, partnership and cooperation have long defined the history of the peoples of the United States of America and Morocco. With the recovery of Moroccan independence, the abiding friendship between Rabat and Washington has continued as the two nations have sought ways to strengthen their ties. On April 2, 1957, the United States and Morocco entered into an agreement under which the United States undertook to provide a programme of economic and technical assistance to Morocco. Over the last five decades, the American people have invested over 2 billion dollars in the human, economic and institutional development of Morocco. The United States Agency for International Development has worked with the Government of Morocco to address the priority needs of the Moroccan people. Our sound relationship and joint efforts in such diverse sectors as infrastructure and water, professional and technical training, mother and child health care, urban development and microfinance, education and agriculture have changed the face of Morocco and improved the living conditions of countless Moroccans.

To what extent has the Free Trade Agreement (FTA) deepened this cooperation?
The United States-Morocco Free Trade Agreement represents a new stage in the traditional friendly relations between our two countries. It encourages and provides the conditions for an increase not only in trade but also in investment. The FTA is intended to bring mutual investments. There has already been an increase in both and I expect that this trend will continue into the future. In order to assist our Moroccan partners in realizing the benefits implicit in the FTA, USAID has undertaken to help acquaint Moroccan exporting manufacturers in key sectors such as textiles and leather with U.S. market conditions and in seeking U.S. partners. In addition, USAID is working with a variety of Moroccan partners to improve the business climate in Morocco. An improved business climate will provide the conditions that permit and encourage greater business linkages between our two countries, including both trade and investment.

What are the fields in which the USAID intervenes?
Our current programme includes activities in three areas: Democracy/ Governance, Education and Workforce Development, and Economic Growth. These three pillars are mutually reinforcing. For example, the development of a qualified, educated labour force is necessary for economic growth; good governance and transparency is required to attract new investments for boosting economic growth; investments in municipal infrastructures are essential to meet the basic needs of the citizen at the local level; fundamental education is a condition for an active participation in social and political life.

What are the projects you are financing and how much do you allocate for each one and who are your partners?
This is a three fold question to which I cannot reply exhaustively. Our portfolio includes a number of activities. For example, under economic growth, we have the Integrated Agriculture and Agrobusiness projects, which work in several regions to develop value-chains, from the field to the market. Under education, our activities aim at improving the quality and relevance of basic education; we also work to improve the employability of students to make their learning more relevant to the needs of the job market. Under the local governance project, we assist in the process of improving the participation of the civil society in the decision-making affecting the lives of their constituency. So, our partners are multiple: they include the ministries, the private sector, the parliament, locally elected officials, non-governmental and community-based organisations. With regard to the budget, it is around USD20 million per year for the current activities, roughly 40% for economic growth and education respectively, and 20% for governance.

How do you evaluate the impact of your assistance and your programmes on the Moroccan population?
There is a lot to say about our programmes; we have been here over 50 years. As I mentioned earlier, our assistance has concerned several diverse sectors, has changed the face of Morocco and improved the living conditions of countless Moroccans. For example, our assistance to the construction of the Mohammed V and Mechraa Hamadi dams in eastern Morocco has contributed to transforming thousands of hectares of semi-arid wasteland in the Oriental Region into productive use. This water system continues today to contribute to the economic sustenance of the region and to the livelihood of more than 50,000 semi-nomadic people and their families. We have trained more than 4,500 Moroccan professionals, especially in agriculture, public health and rural development who today contribute fully to the development and flourishing of their country. We also have a 30-year collaboration with the Ministry of Health that resulted in a drop in the number of children born per woman from 7 in 1979 to 3 in 1997. Over the same period, the infant mortality rate decreased by 67% and the rate of maternal mortality during childbirth dropped by 47%.

We have developed a model for normalising informal neighbourhoods rather than destroying them. This aimed at preserving the social fabric and is based on the recognition of citizen priorities. The model was replicated by the government in over 30 cities. We also had a strong collaboration with the government in the micro-finance sector. This collaboration led to the adoption of an innovative legal and regulatory framework that has enabled Moroccan non-governmental organisations to lead the way in the delivery of micro-credit and other micro-finance products. USAID support in the creation of Al Amana has been rewarding for hundreds and thousands of small business owners and their families. With access to credit, these entrepreneurs have enlarged their businesses, created jobs and achieved a level of economic success they had never thought possible.

Under the current strategy, in basic education, USAID programmes trained teachers and other education officials in new approaches to improve curricula and teaching methods, which incorporate life skills, such as communication and critical thinking, along with traditional subjects. The models have shown that new methods can improve dropout rates and ultimately contribute to a more promising future for these young people.
In building democratic institutions, USAID has had a long-term programme of support to Morocco's effort in decentralising authorities to the local level, where citizens have the opportunity to become involved and to hold officials accountable for what they do. In the area of economic growth, a major accomplishment over the last five years was the signing of the Morocco-U.S. Free Trade Agreement. USAID has helped the GOM agencies and the private sector to take full advantage of the FTA. Over the next five years, USAID support to economic growth will focus on policy reforms to further improve the business environment in Morocco. USAID also expects to continue support to agricultural policy and complement work funded by the Millennium Challenge Corporation.

What are the difficulties that the USAID faces in its work in Morocco?
USAID does not face particular difficulties in Morocco. This is because our whole strategy is designed in close coordination with the Government of Morocco and we have excellent relationships with all our counterparts. Our activities are fundamentally demand-driven, so there is no resistance to any of our projects. The only challenge that we face is to make sure that our assistance has a real impact on the lives of the Moroccan people and that the results we help achieve are sustainable after an activity is completed.

Two years ago, you cited in the Moroccan daily Le Matin the judicial aspect as one of the constraints which hamper the development of some projects. What is the state of affairs today?
Morocco has made progress in improving the functioning of its commercial courts, although there is still room for further improvements. A fair, just and efficient court system is vital to a good business climate. Equitable and efficient enforcement of laws, including contract law, is a necessary condition to doing business. USAID has been working with our Moroccan partners in certain areas to improve the effectiveness of the commercial courts.

Moroccan judges have obtained a better understanding of bankruptcy issues and those related to intellectual property protection through USAID-assisted training. Furthermore, we have worked with our Moroccan partners to introduce and increase the use of alternative dispute resolution mechanisms, such as mediation and arbitration, to allow a more rapid and less costly means to settle commercial disputes than always having recourse to the courts. This also lessens the burden on the latter, which are thus freed to concentrate on resolving only those disputes that are not amenable to resolution through other means. This will improve their efficiency and allow them to settle their cases more quickly, thus lessening the costs to businesses going through the courts.

What do you think about the advances that Morocco has realised at the economic and social levels?
I think that Morocco has made tremendous progress in many social and economic areas. For example, the adoption of the new family code, the Moudaouana, is a real progress that is changing the life of Moroccan women. The decentralisation/deconcentration strategy implemented by the Government is a bold reform that, once fully implemented, is going to improve dramatically the decision-making process and better address the needs of the population. With regard to the economy, Morocco has demonstrated its resilience and is now able to absorb major external shocks without compromising its productive base. Each economic sector has now its strategic plan (Plan Azur, Plan Emergence, Plan Vert…) which show the country's willingness to be pro-active in addressing the challenges and taking the opportunities of a high-speed changing international environment.

What is your vision for the USAID/Morocco in the coming 3-5 years and how does it coincide with the general plans for Morocco within the region?
USAID/Morocco is currently working on its new strategy for the next five years. In developing this new strategy, we will consult extensively with Moroccan government officials as well as representatives of the private and non-governmental sector. In the broadest terms, we expect to be focusing on improving opportunities for Moroccan youth across the board: in economic opportunity, in education, and in their participation in public life. Youth represent a huge potential resource for the country but many changes will be needed in order for them to fulfill that potential. For example, there needs to be a better match between what students learn in the education system and what the Moroccan job market demands.
http://www.moroccobusinessnews.com/Content/Article.asp?idr=24&id=279
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Rising costs and competition threaten Moroccan textiles sector.
2008-07-15 By Hassan Benmehdi

Competition and the rising price of raw inputs threaten to kerb the success Morocco's textile market enjoyed in 2007.

The Moroccan Association of Textile and Clothing Industries (AMITH) is sounding the alarm: difficult times may lie ahead for the textiles sector, the country's largest employer. Speaking at an AMITH General Assembly in Casablanca on Tuesday (July 8th), The association’s president, Mohamed Tamer, said that although the textiles and clothing industry sector provided more than 213,000 jobs and saw strong growth in the quarter of the year, there is a risk of a major drop in production in the near future. Textiles and clothing exports were down 2% at the end of May, he added.

Observers say the sector is expecting a crisis from sharp international competition and continually rising prices for raw materials, particularly energy inputs such as oil. As the source of one third of Morocco's total exports, the need to save the sector from decline is urgent.

Jaâfar, a clothing manufacturer in Casablanca, told Magharebia that it is high time for the state to review its fiscal policy plans for the sector, in order to make it more competitive on the world market. He pointed to the example of Egypt, where he said state support led to a 13% increase in textiles exports in 2007.

Abdelkader El Kouhil, who owns a textiles factory in Casablanca, thinks the problem lies in a lack of professional training in recent years. "This has had a negative impact on the competitiveness of Moroccan textiles and clothing businesses," he said.

One teacher at a Rabat textiles school indicated that the problem is circular. Students flee the training centres, he said, because they consider the sector to be going through a crisis.

Participants at the AMITH meeting also took the opportunity to assess progress made on the 2008 action plan, which centred on projects including Nassij MED, Vision 2015, Fibre Citoyenne, Maroc in Mode, Programme S2C, and Fashion and Design School. These action plans aim to improve competitiveness in order to allow the Moroccan textiles industry to hold its own against international economic risk factors.

Speaking at the conference AMITH Director General Mohamed Tazi made it clear that the association was aware of the many difficulties facing the sector. Real opportunities remain within the grasp of the Moroccan industry, he said, particularly if it transforms itself into a fashion industry. The geographical proximity of the European market is a determining element, he said.   AMITH President Tamer echoed that view.  "As long as Morocco remains 14km from the European continent, the sector will continue to do well."
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Morocco commemorates Family Law reform with new National Woman's Day.
By Naoufel Cherkaoui 2008-07-18

The designation of October 10th as National Women's Day celebrates Morocco's 2003 Family Code. Parliamentarians welcomed the new holiday while some citizens say the code has not yet been fully implemented. The Moroccan government announced this week that October 10th of every year will be National Women's Day in the Kingdom. The decree follows legislative changes advancing women's rights and the improved political representation of women in the country's governance. "This occasion…commemorates the historic monarchical address…in which His Majesty expressed the content of the new family code," a July 12th statement from the Social Development, Family and Solidarity Ministry said.

On October 10th, 2003, two years after creating a panel to revise Morocco's Civil Status Code, the Moudawana, King Mohammed VI publicly announced a modernised Family Law lifting the iniquity imposed on women, protecting children’s rights, and safeguarding men’s dignity. "This code", the statement read, "strongly emphasised that the values of human rights and equality, as they are perceived worldwide, go in line with the teachings and goals of our tolerant religion, which caused the whole world to admire our country and the long-sightedness of our King, may God defend him".

Parliament unanimously endorsed the Family Law on February 3rd, 2004. Among its provisions: husband and wife are jointly responsible for the family, women are not subject to the "guardianship" of a male family member, women can institute a divorce and women have the right to accept a marriage only if her husband agrees not to take further wives. Along with marking the anniversary of Morocco's progressive family code, October 10th will henceforth be an occasion to evaluate the work of women's rights activists and assess prospects for future reform, the ministry said.

Moroccan women have gained significant achievements over the past years, said Family and Solidarity Minister Nozha Skelli, citing the family code amendments, the election of 34 women to parliament and the appointment of seven female ministers to the current cabinet. The minister called on women to intensify efforts to develop the country, to participate in the political domain and to enhance their presence in local administrations . "Announcing a national day for women is an important event that Moroccan women deserve, having fought for their rights, which they will surely have in full one day," said parliamentarian Zahra Shkaf.

In comparison to many Arab states, Morocco has made huge advances in women's rights, Shkaf noted, adding that other countries in the region now look to Morocco as an example. Some women, however, have been critical of the family code reforms. Khadija Al-Riyadi, head of the Moroccan Association for Human Rights, argues that the code did not achieve real equality for women. "Despite everything that has been said about the code," Riyadi said, "everyone is convinced that it has not resulted in any tangible change in Moroccan women's life".

Riyadi believes there is a lack of political will or basic resources to implement the code's provisions. Moreover, "social and economic problems because of high prices and massive lay-offs" mean the code has had very little impact on the life of Moroccan women, she said. "Naming a national day for the Moroccan woman is something positive," engineering student Hind told Magharebia. "But what is more important is to improve their lives so they would celebrate their day feeling comfortable." To achieve this, she said, violence against women must be eradicated and there must be a change in "men's mentality concerning women". http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/features/2008/07/18/feature-02
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King receives PM, Human Development Observatory President.
Nador (northeast), July 18

King Mohammed VI received, here Friday, Prime Minister, Abbas El Fassi and President of the Human Development Observatory, Rachid Belmokhtar. During this meeting, El Fassi presented to the Sovereign a report on Morocco's anti poverty program, the National Initiative for Human Development (INDH), for the years 2005, 2006 and 2007.

Some 12,000 projects were carried out in both rural and urban areas during this period. These projects benefited 3 million people and provided training to 20,000 others in the field of project development and elaboration. The Monarch was also briefed on the INDH action program for the current year, which provides for carrying out 5,200 projects, worth some MAD 3.3 bln.

On his part, Belmokhtar submitted to the king the 2008-2010 action program of the Human Development Observatory, as well as the 2007 activity report of this institution and the first collection report of the INDH. The King initiated on May 18, 2005, the initiative to reduce poverty, fight exclusion through improving the sectors of health, education, eradicating illiteracy, upgrading water and power access and revamping cultural infrastructures.

The initiative provided for the creation of the Human Development Observatory to monitor the phenomenon of poverty and exclusion and to analyze the impact of INDH programs on human development indicators.
http://www.map.ma/eng/sections/social/king_receives_pm_hu/view
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Fun happens when least expected.
By Bronwyn Sell  Wednesday July 16, 2008

They say the joy is in the journey, not the destination. I say bollocks. Give me a direct flight and a taxi to my pre-booked hotel and I'll give you joy. Oh, I've done it the hard way. There was the time I decided to see Scandinavia and smugly booked an ultra-cheap flight from London to Friedrichshafen in Denmark. "Oh look honey," I hear the more geographically supercilious among you say, "Typo in the Herald. They've put Friedrichshafen in Denmark." Idiots! Everyone knows its in Germany.

Yes, Frederikshavn (read it carefully and compare with above) is in Denmark. Friedrichshafen is about as far south as Germany gets and about 1400km from Scandinavia. Cue hilarious scenes at Friedrichshafen airport when I say, "Excuse me, which way to Copenhagen?" That's like turning up in Auckland and asking for directions to Ayers Rock.

But a worse error of geographical judgment was letting my new boyfriend plan a Christmas holiday in Morocco. Rather than fly from London into Marrakesh, like everyone else does, he decided we'd take a budget flight (you see a pattern here?) to Madrid, a train to the south of Spain, a ferry to Ceuta in Spanish Morocco and a taxi and bus across the border into the real Morocco. Ah, so much room for error!

It took four days of our nine-day holiday to get to Morocco, at which point we had to pretty much turn around and head home. We must be the first tourists in Moroccan history to have missed Fes, Marrakesh, Casablanca and the Atlas Mountains. We spent our two nights in Morocco in a village in the Rif Mountains called Chefchaouen, where nothing much happens but the Muslim call to prayer.

And it was heaven. We lost ourselves in its alleyways, drank fresh orange juice, scoffed tagine and watched kids play football in the dust and women wash clothes in a waterfall-fed river. It was what you so rarely get in a week's travel: a slice of the unaffected everyday life of a foreign village.

Would I make the same mistake again? No, these days I'm far more careful. And what a lost opportunity that is.
Bronwyn Sell is a freelance journalist with a zest for travel.
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/7/story.cfm?c_id=7&objectid=10520878
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Morocco seeks energy security.
By Sarah Touahri  2008-07-16

Morocco, a country where 96% of energy is imported, has announced a plan to reduce dependence on foreign supplies by encouraging increased efficiency and the use of sustainable alternative energy sources. Energy security is all the buzz in Morocco, where experts and officials have begun to discuss the thorny issue on a regular basis. Minister of Energy and Mining Amina Benkhadra announced a new plan on Tuesday (July 8th) to reduce dependence on foreign energy sources by cutting waste, increasing efficiency and boosting the use of sustainable energy sources.

The Moroccan government says it has a plan to reduce imports of electricity, oil and gas. Last year almost all of its energy – 96% – came from abroad. Energy Federation President Moulay Abdellah Alaoui has said that oil imports alone account for more than 30% of total imports into the country. In a bid to reduce dependency on foreign energy, the government is taking the preliminary steps to create a $1 billion energy development fund from gifts from Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates totalling $800m and a contribution of $200m from the Hassan II Foundation.

During a cabinet meeting last Tuesday Minister of Energy and Mining Amina Benkhadra said the new energy strategy aims to safeguard energy supplies by seeking new sources, achieving an optimal energy mix and developing sustainable regional and international integration. Benkhadra said that in order to rein in demand, energy use for street lighting, buildings, industry and transport will be reviewed and adjusted to consume less energy.

To cut down petrol and diesel use, the government has outlined an action plan of encouraging citizens to improve public transport and replace older cars with newer, more efficient models. In addition, beginning in January 2009, only two types of fuel will be sold in Morocco: 50ppm diesel and super unleaded petrol. The use of these cleaner fuels should cut atmospheric emissions by 760 tonnes of lead per year and 54,000 tonnes of sulphur per year.

Nuclear energy is a major component of the country's energy security strategy. In the long term, the 2020/2030 strategic programmes are based on the principle of retaining the option of nuclear electricity generation. The use of renewable energies also figures prominently in the strategy. The productive sectors committee within the Chamber of Representatives has highlighted the importance of promoting solar and wind power and learning from the experience of European countries. The government has set a target of increasing the use of renewable energies to 20% of the electricity balance and 10% of the national energy balance by 2012. http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/features/2008/07/16/feature-01
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Morocco to create $1 bln energy development fund.
Rabat, July 16

Morocco announced it will soon set up a $ 1 billion fund for energy development to weather the impact of the global oil price hike, Minister of Energy, Mines, Water and the Environment, Amina Benkhadra said on Tuesday. The fund will be financed by grants offered earlier this year to the north African kingdom by Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, amounting to $ 800 mln, while the Hassan II Fund for Economic and Social Development will contribute another 200 million dollars, she said.

Benkhadra, who was speaking at question time at the House of Advisors, recalled that king Mohammed VI chaired on Tuesday a meeting to consider the guidelines of the medium and long-run national energy strategy. The country is aiming mainly to secure the energy supplies through diversifying resources, she said, noting that Moroccans' consumption of electricity is expected to quadruple by 2030.

Morocco is now turning towards using gas as an important energy source, either through the Maghreb-Europe gas pipeline, or the liquefied natural gas (LNG). She did not rule out the possibility of resorting to the nuclear energy, and the promotion of bituminous rocks, with the creation of a 100-MW electricity plant in the southern region of Tarfaya.

With the aim of reducing energy consumption, the government is encouraging the use of solar energy devises and low-consumption bulbs in hotels and hospitals, as well as the use of renewable energies in education institutions. The non-oil producing country is trying to reduce the share of oil products in the energy bill and guarantee security stocks, while raising awareness on the need to reduce consumption. Benkhadra revealed that the act governing minerals is being “updated,” and will mainly provide for granting new exploitation authorizations of especially in small-scale mines and geothermal deposits.
http://www.map.ma/eng/sections/box3/morocco_to_create_1/view
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Morocco sends moderate Muslim preachers to Europe.
RABAT, Morocco (AP)

Morocco plans to send scores of moderate Muslim preachers to Europe during the holy month of Ramadan to help fight extremism in the Moroccan community abroad, the ministry for religious affairs said Thursday. The government will send 167 men and nine women preachers to address Moroccan immigrants during Ramadan, which runs during September this year. Muslims traditionally fast and attend sermons at mosques during the holy month.

The preachers are instructed to "answer the religious needs of the Moroccan community abroad, to protect it from any speeches of extremism or irregular nature, and to shelter it from extremism and fanaticism," said a statement from the religious affairs ministry in Rabat, the Moroccan capital. Abdellatif Begdouri Achkari, the religious affairs minister's chief of staff, said Morocco has been sending preachers to minister to expatriates for many years but hand-picked the latest batch to make sure they specifically address extremism. "The needs of the Moroccan community abroad may vary from one community to another, and these needs evolve with time," Achkari told The Associated Press.

Islam is Morocco's state religion and King Mohammed VI is officially "the commander of the believers." But the country's official, moderate practice has faced a growing wave of extremism in recent years. Security officials have voiced concerns about terrorist links among Moroccans and dual Moroccan-European citizens. Suicide bombers killed dozens of people in attacks in Casablanca in May 2003.

The religious affairs ministry said 100 preachers would go to France and Belgium, while Italy and Germany would get 10 each, and Spain and the Netherlands seven. The rest will head to Scandinavia and Britain, while one preacher will go to Canada. Strict criteria were applied in choosing the candidates. Besides being well-versed in the Quran and knowledgeable about theology, they must be "known for their good reputation, devout beliefs and high moral standards," the ministry said. There are an estimated 3.3 million Moroccans living abroad, 10 percent of the total Moroccan population. Most live in Spain, France and Belgium or the Netherlands. http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5g9pCMY7HNr0Zaa_lVEoB0XGVCLSQD91VO3L01
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Marrakech Economic Over Dependency on Tourism.
Jul 8, 2008

The playground for the rich and famous for many years, Marrakech, seems to have fallen victim to its own success. The tell-tale signs, inflation is at an all time high, real estate prices have skyrocketed and hotel overnight stays have been decreasing over the past several months. The city’s overdependence on tourism is a looming threat to the economy.

The king’s speech at the 2001 Conference on Tourism held in Marrakech marked a turning point in policy. The government presented Vision 2010 as Morocco's national strategy in the tourism sector. The main objectives were to attract five times as many visitors in 2010 as in 2002 and create 600.000 new jobs in the hospitality and tourism sector. In 2002, Marrakech benefited from a 200 million Dirhams (27.4 Million USD) endowment established by the King of Morocco. The red city became the jet-set capital of Africa.

Building on its momentum, Marrakech has capitalized on its competitor’s unfavorable environment. The surge in terrorism activity in Egypt in 2002, the bird flue scare in Turkey and terrorist threats from Kurd separatists against tourist sites have all favorably benefited tourism in Morocco.

For many years, Marrakech followed the strategic development path of the hospitality and tourism sector, it was its industry of choice. Thanks to its rich culture, its exotic landscapes and proximity to Europe, a mere three hour flight away from all major European capital, Marrakech attracted more than two million tourists in 2007.

After September 11, many investors from the Middle East faced with increasing difficulties when investing in the US and Europe saw in Morocco a friendly Islamic country with great investment potential. Marrakech has attracted major foreign investors. Today the investments are in excess of 161 Billion Dirhams (in dollars).

Can’t have your cake and eat it to

From an economic standpoint, Marrakech has undeniably benefited. The flipside, local official seem to overlook is that there is activity without external diseconomies. According to the Haut Commissariat au Plan (HCP), Marrakech is today, by far, the most expensive city in Morocco. And the economy at large was impacted. The upswing of prices has been remarkable in Marrakech. However, this label does not sit well with the consumers, tourists and locals alike.

Local officials have been trying to shed off this image. Abdellatif Kabbaj, “the myth of the expensive city is false, categorically false”. This statement contradicts the numbers advanced by the Haut Commissariat au Plan, HCP, (High Commission of Planning.) The cost of living index for the first 5 months of 2008 is higher than the national average by 2.7 points. It has reached 184.9.

A few years ago, Marrakech was seen as a tourist destination where life was simple and affordable. Between 2003 and 2007 the price of land doubled. Fueled by real-estate speculators and wealthy clients looking for state of the art construction, not to mention soaring gas prices, prices of raw materials are soaring. In the Financial Times, a few weeks ago, a real-estate agency was advertising a 1500 square meter house in Marrakech for 6.8 million dollars. The same agency is advertising a 1000 square meter villa for sale in St Tropez outskirts for a mere 4.25 Million dollars.

This euphoria has enthralled various sectors of the local economy. Tourists who are able to afford higher prices drive retailers to raise prices of existing products and stock more expensive ones. Everybody bears the brunt of steeper prices. Ironically, retailers themselves, being able to sell their goods at higher prices are asked to shell more for their rents. They end up passing along the cost to costumer. Both local consumers and tourists have been victimized by the sticker shock sting. Consumers have been outraged by some eye-popping price increases. These inflationary tensions have spilled over other sectors of the Moroccan economy and contributed to a rise in the general inflation. The local consumers well being and quality of life has being impacted by this ”irrational exuberance.” Tithe price increase of the basic goods are rising faster the general inflation.

This euphoria in Marrakech has spawned a policy of “business opportunism” that may, sooner or later, negatively impact the local economy. Some unscrupulous taxi drivers, restaurateurs and small shops owners, have been charging unjustifiably high prices.

Regulations have been implemented to deter taxi drivers and restaurants owners from inflating their prices. Local public officials argue that, in a free market economy, there is not much government can do to fight excessive pricing. The issue is enforcement, the regulations aiming at curbing abusive pricing lack teeth because they are difficult to enforce, therefore their possible deterrent effect remains minimal. It all amounts to window dressing and falls short in its effort to satisfy and reassure the international public opinion.

Economic overdependency

In Marrakech the sources of income are not diversified. Tourism is the only major industry. The choice is not between “Manufacturing and Tourism”, but rather “Tourism or unemployment”.

The numbers speak for themselves. Between 2003 and 2007, investments in Marrakech reached over 158 Billion Dirhams. The tourism sector claiming the lion share of 72%, 27% went to the real-estate and less than 1% was shared among commerce, agriculture, the craft industry and services combined. The land and labor gobbled up by the hospitality and tourism industry have an opportunity cost that has often been overlooked. The country has yet to start a long overdue alternative economic development.   Karim Zouiyen Morocco Newsline
http://www.morocconewsline.com/news+article.storyid+519.htm
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Pro-poor growth: What future strategy?
18/07/2008

The year 2008 seems to bring good news for our political officials. In fact, the Minister of Finance has boasted that the growth rate in 2008 will reach 6.8%. The High Commission for Planning (HCP), for its part, estimated a 5.3% growth rate for 2009. But the majority of this country's citizens, on the other hand, ask about the mechanisms by which this growth will be redistributed and shared. Who really benefits from it? And beyond figures, is this growth accompanied by a real reduction of poverty, inequality and social disparities?

Indeed, wealth distribution is fundamental in economics. This idea pushed analysts to distinguish between the growth processes according to their impact on the disadvantaged populations, and thereby introduce the notion “pro-poor growth”.

This notion was developed following the experience of a number of developing countries where economic growth, controlled by the market forces, tends to benefit only the rich, at the expense of the poor. This explains the ineffectiveness of most development policies aimed at the reduction of poverty through the redistributive effect of wealth going from the rich to the poor.

The pro-poor growth process is thus conceived of as a remedy to the failure of the development policies to reduce poverty by the correction of anomalies in terms of the growth-gains distribution. The implementation of such a process necessitates the adoption of a poor-oriented growth strategy. This approach consists in identifying the sectors of activity and regions where poverty is rampant and the factors that will contribute to its reduction, along with improving education, health and living conditions in general.

With these objectives in mind, the growth policies can be evaluated on the basis of a distribution of growth gains on the whole population.

Concerning Morocco, the state has since independence implemented many successive programmes aiming at improving the populations' living conditions and reducing poverty. Important advances have been registered in this respect. They have been mainly reflected in the long term growth rate levels, as well as in the per capita income. Hence, the per capita income exceeded the USD 2,300 threshold in 2006, against only USD 400 in 1980. But in what way has this substantial development permitted the reduction of poverty, with its multiple facets in terms of precariousness, vulnerability and deprivation?

According to the latest survey on the standard of living and household's consumption, the rate of poverty in Morocco fell some 6 points between 1985 and 2001, from 21% to 15.3%. This drop, however, should not hide the obvious disparities that exist between regions and between rural and urban areas. At the regional level, poverty manifests itself most in the Meknes-Tafilalt region and the Gharb region. The regions least affected by the poverty phenomenon are those of Casablanca and Rabat.

This improvement is a result of a significant evolution in terms of the average income coupled with a drop of inequality, mainly in rural areas. Yet, poverty remains strongly concentrated in rural areas. This “pro-poor” growth profile, however, did not benefit the rural areas' poor and those of the city in the same way. The city's poor has benefited the most.

For these reasons, it is perhaps time to treat rural development as a national priority and to put in place, as soon as possible, a voluntarist and audacious rural development policy. This policy should revolve around two points: the upgrading of infrastructure in rural areas and the encouragement of revenue-generating activities for rural populations, in order to limit rural exodus and widen growth's social basis. This requires the mobilisation of everyone and the involvement of all the players concerned, both at the local and national levels.

An integrated strategy was already established in 2000: “2020 strategy for rural development”. So why not revive it and try to adapt it to the current national context and the new challenges? This of course requires a certain political courage and mainly a vision.
http://www.moroccobusinessnews.com/Content/Article.asp?idr=23&id=277
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Vocational training: Emergency plan to offset labour deficit
18/07/2008

To face up to the alarming situation of Morocco's educational system, especially in terms of vocational training, the government has drawn up an emergency plan that was presented to King Mohammed VI early this week. Despite the long vaunted educational reform launched in 2003, Morocco's educational system has been recently classified by the World Bank as one of the worst in the Arab world, even worse than that of besieged Gaza. And recently, a number of Moroccan economic observers have pointed out that Morocco's training sector is deficient and is not going hand in hand with the market needs and the economic transformation the country is undergoing.

The industrial Emergence Plan, the tourism Azur Plan, the agricultural Green Plan, etc., are all projects that will need thousands of competences, which now seem to be in short supply and maybe even in the future. This alarming situation has prompted the government to establish an emergency strategy to upgrade the Moroccan vocational training system.

The innovation of this strategy is that it proposes for each sector concerned a road map specifying the number and nature of the competences needed, the methods to be followed, the budget required etc. The main sectors concerned are the industry, tourism, agriculture and craft industry. The plan, with an overall budget of MAD 4 billion, is the fruit of 6 studies made on behalf of the Ministry of Employment and Vocational Training and financed by the Hassan II Fund.

The industrial sector, which will need some 200,000 graduates by the year 2012, will see the creation of a number of training centres, each specialised in a subsector: aeronautics, cars, electronics, off-shoring, textile and leather, and agro-industry. Concerning tourism, with Plan Azur's sea resorts, the arrival of giant tourism and real estate companies, the increasing number of investment, the sector will require, according to professionals, up to 67,000 graduates by 2012. To attain this objective, the plan envisages the setting up of 30 training centres, following the Apprenticeship training approach.

Last June, the government and tourism professionals signed on a contract programme designed to make up for the deficit in terms of training and human resources in the tourist sector. This contract, which is expected to mobilise a budget of MAD 350 million, provides for the extension of the existing training centres, the creation of new ones and new modules and the encouragement of more internships.

Agriculture, the country's first employer (43%), will have a special focus in this emergency plan. This strategy, which intends to accompany the sector's “Green Morocco”, targets training some 60,000 young peasants. A total of 13 training centre will be created for this purpose.

The studies conducted revealed the craft industry, for its part, will need up to 104,600, to prop up the industry's 1015 vision. The emergency plan is expected to provide some 51 young “Maallem”. It intends to build five apprentice centres and the expansion of five others that are already operating. Thus, the importance of training is increasingly recognised, but the identification of training needs is decisive to obtain satisfactory results and lay the foundations of a synergy between the different players in the training and job markets.

“Companies seeking to invest in Morocco are no longer worried about the cost of manpower, but rather its competence,” said the Minister of Employment and Professional Training, Jamal Rhmani, adding that the country might be obliged to resort to foreign competences to offset this shortage.
http://www.moroccobusinessnews.com/Content/Article.asp?idr=18&id=278
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Morocco Preserves Exotic and Historic Charm

The VIPs arrived long ago, including Sting, Mick Jagger, Princess Alexandra, David Bowie, Vanessa Branson, Alain Delon. Many occupy luxurious palaces around Marrakech. The tradition of Western interest goes back to Winston Churchill’s famous patronage of Marrakech’s beautiful Mamounia Hotel. Yet Morocco preserves an exotic and historic charm lost in many other Arab countries, plus a warm, dry, healthy climate, and a beautiful landscape, with its markets and traditional architecture, its car-free medinas and palaces hiding breathtaking gardens.

Morocco is now going mass-market. The coasts are a major destination for French tourists and increasingly for retirees. There is a whole associated infrastructure of guest houses, French-speaking newspapers and doctors, and an increasing number of French settlers. Morocco’s economy has been doing quite well. King Mohammed, who succeeded in 1999, is a dynamic monarch who has brought substantial reform to Morocco, and some national reconciliation. Unemployment fell in 2006 to 15.5% in towns (9.7% nationally), down from 18.4% in 2005 (11% nationally).

However national GDP is only expected to grow by 2.5% in 2007, according to the Finance Ministry, due to a poor harvest. This follows a spectacular economic performance in 2006, when GDP grew by 8%. Nevertheless indicators suggest an economy which is steaming ahead, with electricity consumption up 22.9% on the year to March, industrial equipment imports up 12.7%. This is combined with an inflation rate of a mere 2.7%.

In 2007, a study published by the Georgetown University-based Center for Strategic and International Studies called 'Arab Reform and Foreign Aid: Lessons from Morocco' concluded that Morocco provides a valuable lesson in political and economic reform. It showed that top-down reforms can be highly effective, if skilfully and determinedly carried out, and that aid donors should lean towards countries where evidence of such commitment is to be found. Morocco received US$3 billion in foreign direct investments in 2007, mostly from the Gulf, according to reports in the leading newspaper Aujourdhui.

The forthcoming mass tourism explosion: A massive tourism and residential development programme 'Vision 2010' - of which the coastal section has come to be known as ‘Plan Azur’ - was launched six years ago to bring 10 million visitors a year to Morocco by 2010 and build 250,000 hotel beds, including 180,000 located in or around the cities.

There will be 1,300 weekly flights into Morocco, with 15,6 million passengers per year. Many large international hotel chains have already built developments, including Club Med, Liwa, Accor, and Sol Melia. Tourism almost invariably brings increased interest in buying in the country, and will likely have an enormous impact both on Morocco’s economy, and on property prices. Six huge new tourist stations / residential developments in priority coastal resorts are at the heart of Plan Azur, including: Saidia (Oujda), Lixus (Larache), Mazagan (El Jadida), Mogador (Essaouira), Taghazout (Agadir) and Plage Blanche (Guelmim).

Saidia is being developed by Fadesa and will have 30,000 beds and three 18-hole golf courses, the first unit opened in 2007. Lixus is being shared between three developers and will have 12,000 beds, and two golf courses; the first unit opens in 2009. Mazagan is being developed by Resort Co, and it will have 3,700 beds, opening in 2009.

Mogador is being developed by three developers, will have 6,800 beds, and open in 2009. Taghazout is being developed by Taghazout resort and will have 18,000 beds, and open in 2009. Plage Blanche seems likely to be built by Fadesa, will have 19,500 beds and open in 2012.

Outside the mass market: The long Moroccan real estate boom, of course predates the mass market, and concentrates on the ‘authentic’ Morocco, and above all on giving Westerners a stylish life in exotic, traditional surroundings..

At the core of this has been the craze for buying Riads. It is not unusual to see Riads – traditionally-shaped Moroccan houses, with grand salons giving onto a central tiled courtyard, often with a garden at the centre - offered on the Internet for €500,000 or in the case of the most palatial, €1,000,000. Around 7,500-15,000 French residents live around Marrakech in these and other accommodations.

Will Morocco run out of Riads? Well there are 50,000 Riads in Marraketch and only 1,000 are sold to foreigners. The coasts are also a major destination for French and other European tourists and those looking for a second home. After the boom caused by the French, “the English market is beginning,” says Charles El Fassy of the real estate agent Cabinet Charles El Fassy.

“We have had five years of French buyers. We thought: “Things cannot go on like this any more!” says El Fassy. “But they are going on. It is beginning all over again, with the British.” Prices have increased threefold in four years, he says. Morocco’s climate makes it a perfect destination all year round. It is hard to imagine, but it is possible to ski in Morocco, and mountain trecking is very popular.

The attraction centres of Morocco: The cultural and physical attractions of Morocco centre on its traditional cities - Marrakech, Fes, Meknes, Casablanca, and Essaouira - and on its one coastal resort, Agadir.

Marrakech is an extraordinarily exotic city, with its drama heightened by a location at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. It is expecting 3.5 million tourists by 2010. Marrakech has a complete tourism zone, Aguedal. A public transport system carries tourists from the district into the city centre for its souks and traditional markets selling copperware, wool merchandise, and carpets and kaftans. There are no less than 27 5-star hotels in Marrakech.

In Casablanca the French built a city in a French idiom, heavily influenced by the architecture of the Arab-Andalusian Empire. The city centre has a modernist grandeur, with plenty of space and light. Casabablanca is large, modern, and agreeable, with five golf courses less that an hour away.

Meknes was recognized as a World Heritage Site in 1996. Its physical location, on a plateau, made it Morocco’s trade crossroads. Its magnificent architecture was built by the 17th century Ruler, Sultan Moulay Ismail. Over 55 years he built palaces, mosques, gardens, and lakes. At his death the unfinished buildings including the royal palace - the Versailles of Morocco - which fills most of the old city.

Agadir is Morocco’s main seaside destination. Beautiful beaches, luxurious hotels, an ultra-modern airport are all combined with a moderate climate. Agadir’s beach is spectacular. Some 10 kilometres in length, it is clean and wide. Agadir enjoys a continuous breeze from the Atlantic, so that the temperature is pleasant all day.

Tangier has a louche reputation dating from the 1920s, when it was an outpost for British paederasts. Then in the 1950s, beats, dropouts and writers like Burroughs and Bowles, Ginsberg and Kerouac, Leary and Eldridge Cleaver came to Tangier. It is a messy, rather ugly city. Now its coastline is being covered with resorts and new developments.

Essaouira is popular with independent travelers. This is partly because of its long beach, and partly because of its laid-back atmosphere. Yhe town has long been magnet for Moroccan poets and creative talent. In the Place de L’Indépendence, which is the main square in the centre of Essaouira, there are dozens of cafés and restaurants. It is a pleasant place to eat, drink, and watch the world go by.

Some make the analogy with Turkey. Morocco appeals to European tourists, holiday-makers and retirees for much the same reasons as Turkey. Like Turkey, but arguably more so, Morocco has large qualities of well-preserved architectural history. It has charm, exoticism, and a historical built environment which elsewhere in the Arab world has been largely obliterated by modern buildings. And it has geographical variety, the Atlas mountains, and wonderful beaches.

It is difficult not to suspect that Morocco’s success in attracting both summering and settling Europeans will eventually outpace that of Turkey.  -Alarabonline-
http://english.alarabonline.org/display.asp?fname=2008%5C07%5C07-14%5Cztravelz%5C998.htm&dismode=x&ts=14/07/2008%2004:55:26%20%C3%A3
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Heavy Metal Islam: Rock, Resistance, and the Struggle for the Soul of Islam. Frustration and rage fuel heavy metal across the Middle East and North Africa, where poverty, oppression and war are rampant.
By Steve Appleford, Special to The Times July 17, 2008

TRUE believers are essential to rock 'n' roll. That's especially true in heavy metal, a sound fueled not just by raw aggression and noise, but by youthful feelings of frustration and rage, railing loudly against rules and authority. The greater the repression, the heavier the metal. By that measure, any metal to emerge from the most restrictive regimes across the Middle East and North Africa should be the hardest rock of all, feeding off real poverty and oppression largely unknown to American rock fans. It is a landscape of war, dictatorship and uncertain democracy, where songs of horror and intolerance are reality-based, not fantasy. As one metalhead in Morocco told author Mark LeVine, "We play heavy metal because our lives are heavy metal."

LeVine is one of the truest believers of all, a passionate adherent of Afrobeat visionary Fela Kuti's declaration: "Music is the weapon of the future." A professor of Middle Eastern history at UC Irvine and sometime musician, LeVine documents some vibrant, if marginalized, hard rock scenes across the region in "Heavy Metal Islam," and comes away convinced of the "revolutionary potential of a bunch of kids."

In chapters devoted to Morocco, Egypt, Lebanon, Iran, Pakistan and Israel and the Palestinian territories, LeVine hears an explosive cry for freedom he argues could have a role in resolving the communication breakdown between ethnic groups, sects, generations and classes. Whether that outsized hope is realistic or misplaced, the music he found during five years of travel represents a stirring alternative voice for Muslim youth.

He describes an environment where rapid globalization has shaken identity and community, places such as Morocco where the rich live more lavishly than ever and young multitudes from slums of Casablanca and elsewhere have few places to turn beside the local mosque. That gap, writes Le- Vine, is the "caldron that produces both Morocco's metalheads and its extremists."

Heavy metal musicians in the Islamic world are not typical careerists but musical revolutionaries putting everything at risk for little payoff beyond dreams of free expression. The price has been high, writes LeVine. Morocco initially repressed the scene, convicting 14 metal fans in 2003 as Satanists recruiting "for an international cult of devil worship." In 1997, more than 100 players and fans were jailed in Egypt, where the grand mufti demanded they repent or be executed. (They were eventually released.) That same year in Iran, homes were raided and metal fans arrested.

Some struggles are internal. One young player from the Moroccan band Immortal Spirit was "wicked at soloing," but quit the band and turned "fanatic about religion," grew out his beard and no longer listens to music. The all-female Moroccan band Mystik Moods were screamed at by young men outraged by the idea of teenage girls playing metal. As one band member told LeVine, "It's not easy to be a girl on the metal scene, no matter what country you're living in."

LeVine compares the polite, soft-spoken manner of Islamists he meets to conservative Christians back in the U.S. And the crackdown on "Marockan roll" and other scenes shares some of the historic intolerance for the devil's music in America, where Beatles records were burned, shock-rockers arrested and songs banned from the airwaves. Young men in long hair and black T-shirts are proudly marginalized everywhere, but the stakes are far higher here.

In Egypt, where fans and musicians call themselves "metaliens," LeVine found young women in head scarves banging their heads to the blunt death metal attack of Hate Suffocation. The scene represents a rare corner of that country's society where religion is not central, and young bands are nurtured in garages, in basements, at private parties, while living freely and loudly online to be discovered by the rest of the world.

The book includes some striking scenes of politically charged hip-hop (the preferred musical language of Palestinian youth), but LeVine is most interested in loud guitars. His best chapter is on Iran, where there is no night life and women still can't be shown singing on TV. Western pop culture is privately craved as the volunteer force of basij morality police patrol the streets and government agencies judge bands on such infractions as "too many riffs on electrical guitar and excessive stage movements."

LeVine is not an especially vivid writer, and he tends to praise most of the music he presents, offering little critical context. But his material is rich, as he mingles scenes of conflict with surprising moments of understanding, such as the enthusiastic Arab following for the Israeli metal band Orphaned Land.

And while the sounds and scenes he finds are a fascinating social phenomenon, it's not likely a movement to shake the rigid foundations of Iran or Pakistan, any more than Bruce Springsteen could get John Kerry elected president in 2004. Its value is as culture and communication, not geopolitics.

Metal is slowly being embraced in some corners of the region. By 2006, the Boulevard of Young Musicians fest in Casablanca enjoyed the support of the Ministry of Culture and increasing corporate sponsorship from Nokia.

But when the sounds of the underground reach stages in front of 20,000 paying fans it's no longer just about outcasts and misfits. It has become a commercial enterprise, and any potential as political force will be left to the artists onstage to set free.

Steve Appleford is a journalist based in Los Angeles
http://www.latimes.com/features/books/la-et-book17-2008jul17,0,1806272.story
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The real magic of Morocco. 
Polly Weeks 17/ 7/2008

IF your tastebuds are hankering after summer specialities but the weather still isn't quite right for that barbecue, a Moroccan menu could be the alternative summer feast you've been waiting for. With influences from the East, Mediterranean and Africa, you'll be hard-pushed to find a cuisine so diverse in its flavours. While you could treat yourself to a meal out at one of the many Moroccan restaurants springing up across the country, why not save your pennies and give it a go yourself?

Be warned - if you're going to cook a traditional Moroccan meal then put some time aside, the meal itself can take several hours to prepare. The end result is worth the hard work, however, and your guests certainly won't leave feeling empty, as Cordon Bleu trained chef Ghillie Basan explains in her new book Flavours Of Morocco. "When cooking for guests, it is customary to make vast quantities of food so that the guests will be completely satisfied and unable to finish," she says.

Once the hard work is done, the meal can provide the perfect backdrop to a laid-back summer evening. In traditional Moroccan households the meal will span several hours, as Ghillie reveals: "As dish follows dish, it is vital to pace yourself and eat slowly so that you can enjoy each mouthful." And before you reach for the cutlery, in Moroccan culture it's traditional to eat with your right hand - although if this looks like it'll become a rather messy affair, a knife and fork should probably be kept on stand-by!

To help you get started, Ghillie shares a couple of her favourite recipes, Classic Lamb Tagine with Almonds, Prunes and Apricots, and Rose Flavoured Milk Pudding.

TIPS FOR COOKING A MOROCCAN MASTERPIECE

Be prepared for different flavours - in traditional Moroccan homes, people pass down recipes from generation to generation rather than use books, as such expect every Moroccan meal to taste different!

Keep your spice rack stocked up - from cinnamon to cumin, Moroccan meals are packed full of spices - look out for ras-el-hanout, it's a mix of 30-plus spices.

Before you serve, grab the coriander - whether it's for a salad, tagine, soup or roast, a sprinkling of coarsely chopped coriander completes many a Moroccan meal.

Keep a few tins of chick peas in the cupboard - not only are they great for you, but they're perfect for stews.

Try an after dinner mint. Drunk throughout the day and served after dinner to aid digestion, mint tea provides the perfect way to round off your meal.

Ditch the chips and go for couscous - it's practically a necessity in any Moroccan meal and it's cheap to buy too.

Get fruity - don't restrict fruit to your puddings, any tasty tagine is likely to include some fruit, whether that's apricots, prunes, lemons or dates.

Use ginger - as well as aiding digestion, ginger is a great addition to Moroccan recipes.

Add water - Whether it's orange blossom or rose petal, flavoured waters are great for adding a distinctive taste to salads or desserts http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/entertainment/food_and_drink/s/1058508_the_real_magic_of_morocco_
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Rock the Kasbah: a Roving Reader in Morocco
Roving Reader Charlotte Hodgson from Travel Counsellors recounts the highlights of her fam trip to Morocco with Exodus

As the group of agents headed across the desert, there was silence except for the odd snort and grunt. Fortunately, the interruptions didn’t come from the agents, but from the camels which were transporting us the final two hours to the Bedouin camp at which we were due to stay. As an adventure travel specialist, Exodus is renowned for its innovative itineraries, so I jumped at the chance to join its fam to Morocco. And spending the night in the desert was my favourite part of the trip.

To get there we drove from Ouarzazate to Zagora, the last town before the Sahara, where we transferred to our camels. To my surprise, the camel ride was a therapeutic experience: the animals were extremely well behaved, the ride was far less uncomfortable than I feared, and at 25C the temperature was also much more bearable than I had expected.

Another nice aspect of the evening, as we congregated with a beer around the campfire, was the interaction with our Berber guides who showed us how they bake bread in the sand. Remarkably, it took only 40 minutes or so to cook and was completely very tasty. The following day we drove by minibus through the breathtaking Draa Valley to the Unesco World Heritage Site of Ait Benhaddou. The journey took three hours and highlighted the arid and inhospitable living conditions the Berber people have to endure. Despite this the locals were always welcoming.

AIT BENHADDOU
Ait Benhaddou is an incredibly well-preserved kasbah, or fortified city, and has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1987. It came as little surprise to learn that it has been a location for several films, including Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia and Alexander. We were given a three-hour guided tour of the area, walking through the individual kasbahs to reach the top of the hill and its agadir (fortified granary) for beautiful views of the scorched countryside.

Our hotel, imaginatively named the Kasbah, was superbly positioned overlooking the stunning site just 500 yards away, and featured a vast outdoor seating area and huge swimming pool.

Ait Benhaddou is a popular stop-off for tour groups on their way to Marrakech, but by staying in the charming hotel we managed to have the kasbah and guided tour to ourselves in the morning, before the hordes of mainly French tourists arrived.

Another real highlight for the group was a stay at the gite that Exodus regularly uses in the Atlas mountains. It is a rustic, farmhouse- style property with between two and four people in a room. It’s off the tourist trail and, with a backdrop of snow-capped peaks, makes for a beautiful contrast to the arid, brown desert.

We trekked for four hours in solitude with just a few mountain goats for company. The cheerful staff at the gite cooked us a mammoth meal in the evening of harira (chick pea soup), couscous and lamb tagine, followed by watermelon and mint tea.

MARRAKECH
We finished the tour splendidly, spending two nights in Marrakech staying in a riad, a traditional Moroccan house with an interior graden and courtyard. Tucked away down a side street, a 10-minute walk from the legendary Djemmaa-el-Fna (the main square of Marrakech) it was like stepping back in time as we walked through the huge, heavy, wooden gated door.

For any clients that want to see the real Morocco, and are prepared to forgo a bit of luxury to experience how the Berber people live, this was a magnificent and authentic trip. And a real selling point is that 80% of Exodus’s guides are local people. I’ve sold Morocco in the past – mainly short breaks to Marrakech.

But now I would include the Sahara desert and Atlas mountains as they offer a real insight into a completely different way of life and culture.
http://www.ttglive.com/c/portal/layout?p_l_id=61139&CMPI_SHARED_articleId=897218&CMPI_SHARED_ImageArticleId=897218&CMPI_SHARED_articleIdRelated=897218&CMPI_SHARED_ToolsArticleId=897218&CMPI_SHARED_CommentArticleId=897218
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