Virtual Magazine of Morocco on the Web
Morocco Week in Review 
August 12 , 2006

Japan gives Morocco $8.1m to improve mother health
August 10, 2006,
Japan donated Morocco $8.1 million to fund the second phase of the plan to improve mother health services in rural areas. The first $13 million donation went to the Fès-Boulmane, Meknès-Tafilalet and Guelmime-Smara regions, while the present is to go to Gharb-Chrarda-Béni Hessen and Chaouia-Ourdigha regions. The fund is to help build in the Settat, Kenitra, Khouribga regional hospitals mother-infant departments, operation wards and neo-natal and hospitalisation units.

The first part of the donation was made in November 2004 to namely organise training sessions to reinforce skills and capabilities in mother health in rural areas and supply the concerned regions with medical equipment.

Japanese assistance to Morocco contributed to the construction of 37 health centres in rural zones, the acquisition of medical equipment for 40 health institutions as well as the purchase of 13 ambulances and other vehicles. The initiative also helped train in Japan 24 Moroccan trainees, including physicians, midwives, nurses and other health personnel.
http://www.andnetwork.com/index?service=direct/0/Home/recent.fullStory&sp=l48801
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US agency donates medicines to Morocco.
August 11, 2006

American pharmaceutical company, AstraZeneca, has donated medicines to Moroccan breast cancer stricken women, who are in a precarious situation. Spurred by the Operation USA, the donation included 1 650 000 tablets of Nolvadex.

Operation USA, a non-profit Los Angeles-based disaster relief agency in operation for over 27 years, assists developing communities throughout the world in addressing problems relating to natural and man-made disasters and chronic poverty through the creation of sustainable health, nutrition and disaster response programs.
http://health.andnetwork.com/index?service=direct/1/Home/recent.titleStory&sp=l48955
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Amazigh music: Rwaiss Festival to take place in Chtouka Ait Baha province.

Chtouka Ait Baha province is to have its first festival. The province will host on Aug. 18-20 the Rwaiss festival in order to safeguard the national cultural heritage, reported MAP news agency. Initiated by the Ministry of Culture and organised in collaboration with Chtouka Ait Baha province and its Provincial Council, the festival is part of the Ministry of Culture's programme aiming at revalorising the different aspects of the cultural heritage.

Themed “Rwaiss Festival: Souss Chants and Poems”, the event, which will be organised annually, intends to make the public know about Berber singers and poets, who have always been sensitive to their social environment and known how to maintain a liveliness and warmth in their poems, glorifying love, life, share and hope. The event aims at highlighting the artistic richness and diversity in the south of the kingdom in general and in the Souss-Massa-Draa region in particular to show the great value of Rwaiss musique as a living cultural and artistic heritage.

The organisers of the festival also intend to make such events an efficient tool for cultural and tourist development in the region and the promotion of Rwaiss music through integrating this music genre in the Moroccan musical repertory. The programme schedules three public shows to be performed by eminent Rwaiss music figures, including Fatima Tabaamrant, Aicha Tachinouit and M'barek Ammouri. Traditional groups like Ajmak, Ahiadh,Ahwach and Isemgane will also participate.

A tent will be pitched to allow the public to appreciate classic and modern poetic texts by Amazigh poets. Besides the Amazigh song contest scheduled on the sidelines of the festival, a conference themed “Rwaiss Song: Artistic Elements and Cultural Ties”, as well as exhibitions of modern and classic art, will be organised on the same occasion.
http://www.moroccotimes.com/paper/article.asp?idr=49&id=16440
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Archaeological sites: Encroaching urbanisation menaces Volubilis ruins.
By Houcine Ait Mhand 8/10/2006

The ruins of the town of Volubilis, one of the world heritage sites, is today in danger of extinction because of the uncontrolled growth of the town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun. Inscribed on the World Heritage list in 1998, Volubilis is the largest and best preserved Roman archaeological site in Morocco. For this very reason, the UNESCO World Heritage Fund chose the site to be a world heritage.

In parallel with the International Festival of Volubilis, which was held on Aug. 3 to 8, the “Zerhoun Association for Culture and Development” organised recently a meeting in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun to discuss issues related to the threatened site.

Abdelkader Cherki, a specialist in the material heritage of Volubilis site, said in this context that Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is in need of a rehabilitation plan in order to avoid the setbacks of old rehabilitation plans that did not respect the particularities of the surrounding environment of the site. For his part, Mohammed al-Achaari, Moroccan Minister of Culture, expressed his readiness to discuss the problem with all concerned parties, showing at the same time his astonishment at being excluded from the issue.

Volubilis or Walili as the Arabs call it, is graced with Roman mosaics showing mythological scenes dating back to the second and the third centuries BC. The site's Triumphal Arch majestically stands as a witness of a bygone flourishing era.
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Moroccan textiles struggle in the new order.
By Tom Pfeiffer Reuters August 10, 2006 CASABLANCA, Morocco

Besides the hypnotic whir of the sewing machines, there is little to trouble the atmosphere of quiet efficiency at Abdelkhalek Chraibi's pants factory in suburban Casablanca. Rows of women in light blue overalls, their hair tied neatly under white caps, sew strips of beige material at a furious speed. Chraibi says that his operation has never been so efficient, but this is no time to relax. Times have been hard since European markets opened last year to Asian clothing exporters, who have lured clients from Moroccan rivals undermined by weaker logistics, reliability and costs.

New, computerized sewing machines at Chraibi's factory stitch fabric together in record time. His employees are trained to perform at least five different tasks, making production methods more flexible and avoiding illness-related production stoppages. "Once I had 12 girls doing 100 pockets per hour," Chraibi said. "Now I have one girl doing 200 pockets per hour." But of his 35 million to 45 million dirhams, or $4 million to $5.2 million, in annual turnover, Chraibi said that only around 5 percent to 7 percent ended up as profit. In the past, his profit margin was as high as 30 percent.

Moroccan textile exports tumbled last year after European quotas for African producers, which in effect limited the amount of Asian exports to the European market, were mostly removed.

The plunge showed Morocco's reliance on Europe, which takes 92 percent of its textiles, and raised fears for the future of a sector that accounts for 40 percent of manufacturing exports and employs 40 percent of the manufacturing work force.

The textile sector represents 9 billion dirhams, or 4 percent, of gross domestic product in a country struggling with unemployment and poverty. In recent months, exports have begun to recover as buyers in Britain, Spain and France look again to Morocco because of its proximity. "China can't fulfill just-in-time orders for Europe as it's too far and fuel costs are too high," said Lamiya Ismaeli, director for textiles and leather at the Ministry of industry and Trade.

Tailored clothing exports grew 12.3 percent and hosiery 9.6 percent in the first five months of the year, but were still down 3 percent and 15 percent respectively from 2004.

Chraibi, who is also head of institutional and social relations at the national textile lobby Amith, said: "Everyone is chasing the minute that risks being lost, every second. Everyone is becoming more conscious of reactivity." To encourage big brands like Levi Strauss, Diesel and Zara to make Morocco one of their main supply bases, the government is offering to help finance new investments and has slashed duties on imports of raw materials and accessories.

A new port that is scheduled to open next year in Tangier will offer cheaper transit to Europe and the United States, and a free trade zone nearby will allow companies to import material and re- export finished clothes free of tax.

But analysts said that the biggest threat to Morocco's textile trade might also hold a key to its future success. Chinese companies may soon set up shop in Morocco to be closer to European clients and to take advantage of U.S. import quotas that Morocco won recently under a free trade agreement, they said. Officials say that the sector could export 40 billion dirhams' worth of clothing within five years, up from just over 24 billion dirhams' worth in 2004. However, problems still dog the industry.

Most Moroccan textile employees work illegally, receiving wages in cash from companies that keep no records of working hours. That has turned into a big competitive disadvantage now that Western shoppers are looking more at who made their clothes and under what conditions. At the other end of the scale, companies that follow national laws complain of being hamstrung by time-consuming administrative procedures and rigid labor rules. Two years ago, Morocco increased its minimum wage and cut the working week.

"Then they introduced mandatory health insurance, which puts another 5 percent on your overheads," said John Reynolds, a partner in JC Services, a small maker of boiler suits, chefs' jackets and other work wear for Britons that is near Rabat. "It all adds up to make Morocco very unattractive to foreign investors."

Jobless rate falls in Morocco
The number of unemployed in Morocco has fallen below one million people for the first time in 13 years, the government has announced, Agence France-Presse reported from Rabat. There were 879,000 people registered as unemployed at the end of June, or 7.7 percent of the active population aged 15 and over, against 1.23 million unemployed, or 11.1 percent of the population, a year earlier, Morocco said Wednesday. http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/08/10/business/textile.php
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Morocco's renovated riads combine old-world charm with modern comforts.
Sun, Aug. 13, 2006 By Michael Mayer, Mercury News

Travelers looking for luxury have never set their sights on the dusky labyrinthine streets of the old cities of Morocco. But those who venture there are discovering the riad, the North African equivalent of a bed-and-breakfast, with stylish contemporary decor, superb local cuisine and the kind of impeccable service you can only hope for at the finest of hotels. These inns, mostly old homes rebuilt by European entrepreneurs, are part of a revitalization that has helped transform the medinas -- the old walled cities at the core of most Moroccan cities -- into so much more than a place to shop for carpets, leather and exotic trinkets.

The medinas of Marrakech and Fez, in particular, are becoming popular destinations for travelers who want a taste of an exotic, almost third-world culture, but feel like ending each day in first-world comfort. Morocco battled a reputation as a slightly dicey, potentially unsafe destination for years, says Amine Britel, president of Gateway2Discovery, a Newport Beach travel agency. Morocco's King Mohammed VI provided the law enforcement and cleanup services necessary to turn streets that were once crowded with beggars and touts into clean, welcoming places to explore.

And visitors were finally ready to try staying in the medinas, instead of taking day trips in from big-name hotels in the modern neighborhoods. ``You're not going to go all the way to Morocco to stay at the Hilton,'' says Britel, who books a variety of package tours that use riads (it translates as ``courtyards'') whenever possible. ``Our clients love them; it shows up in the feedback regularly. The riads are typically run by a couple who go way beyond the usual to make you feel at home.''

And the Moroccan people welcome Americans as graciously as visitors from anywhere else in the world. No need to stick ``We're from Canada'' patches onto your suitcase; this is one Muslim country where you'll never need to hide your heritage or defend U.S. foreign policy. A proclamation that you're from the States almost always is met with, ``Americans? Big welcome,'' and a friendly offer to help you find a good restaurant or sightseeing stop.

The Sept. 11 attacks dealt a severe blow to what had been a 10-year government plan to boost tourism, which accounts for 20 percent of the Moroccan economy. About 2 million people -- including more than 100,000 Americans -- visited the country in the year 2000, when the king declared his goal of attracting 10 million tourists by the year 2010.

After the attacks, tourism dropped dramatically all over the world, but especially in Arab countries. By 2003, however, the plan was back on pace, with an expectation that the king's goal would be met, according to Inan el-Merini of the Moroccan National Tourism Office.

The heart of Morocco is in the medina, a little slice of the Middle Ages, made up of twisting alleys packed as they have been for centuries with mule carts, food vendors and artisans. Weaving through the controlled chaos are Moroccan men and women in the traditional djellaba (robe) and kids sporting Nikes and jeans. Outside the medinas, in the new cities, are wide, modern streets and gleaming glass buildings, great if you need to cash a travelers' check, but a bore other than that.

The two most active and interesting medinas are in Fez and Marrakech, cities that also have other great attractions within the distance of short taxi rides.

The medina streets are mostly narrow, dark and dusky, and it takes a day or two to get used to finding your way around. But almost every nondescript doorway is the gateway to a sunny riad, mosque or school built with breathtakingly colorful tile and wood carving, even old palaces now used as sites to display pop art. The streets are teeming with women offering henna skin-painting and stands cooking up spicy steamed garbanzos, lamb kebabs and freshly fried doughnuts. You'll sometimes need a couple of hours to cover the equivalent of two U.S. city blocks, there is so much to see.

Most visitors enter the country through Casablanca, a magical place in the memory of Humphrey Bogart devotees, but a city nearly devoid of interest to tourists. Your best bet is to get on a train and head immediately to one of the more flavorful cities. The train system is cheap, clean and prompt, and you can be in Fez in four hours. Car rentals are available, and the nation's highway system is pretty modern, but once you hit the medinas, you'll have no need for the car and nowhere to park it.

To really appreciate Morocco's tourism growth spurt, you have to stay at a riad. The owners have banded together and formed a few online reservation services, so it's easy to get a good look at your choices and make arrangements at your computer. Check www.riadsmorocco.com for accommodations in Fez, Marrakech or the seaside city of Essaouira or www.ilove-marrakesh.com for listings that also include Rabat, Meknes and Agadir. Fez and Marrakech have far more choices for great riads, and are also the most well-located cities for day trips into the Atlas Mountains.

You'll have choices ranging from $55 to $350 a night, and the less expensive ones are not automatically less stylish, clean or well-staffed. The high-end riads almost always have fabulous food if you choose to dine there and often provide television or other extras. But almost all the riads include a great breakfast in the price and the online peek you'll get means you're not likely to be unpleasantly surprised at your choice.

Most of the riads are small, from four to 10 rooms, allowing an attention to service and detail you might miss at a larger hotel. They all feature the courtyard that gives them their name, open to the sky and usually filled with fruit trees, fountains and pools. Most also have romantic, candle-lit dining rooms and a comfortable terrace with views over the medina. Meals are served in all three places, depending on the weather and your daily whim.

Most of the riads were refurbished by French, Spanish and Belgian owners. Riad Houdou in Marrakech was an old Moroccan home, run down to nearly nothing when Brigitte and Jean-Claude Ribéra bought it in 2001. They commuted from their home near Marseilles to watch over the renovations, their goal to use only traditional materials to revive the 19th-century building. Window treatments and bed coverings make use of the spectacular array of Moroccan fabrics. Exquisitely carved wood and the trademark Moroccan tile work known as zellij adorn the walls and doors. The only complete concession to the modern is in the plumbing and fixtures, just where you'd want it.

The Ribéras say that about 50 percent of their guests are Europeans taking advantage of the proximity, but that Australians, Japanese and Americans are becoming a larger share of their clientele every year.

While some of the riads will boast that they're near a particular city square or mosque, your riad's location within the medina is almost irrelevant. Sights are spread from edge to edge, and you can walk to anything you'll want to see. Finding your way to those sights can be another matter.

The medina in Fez is the largest and it is nearly impossible to find an adequate map. Street signs are either absent or in Arabic only, so your best bet is to rely on a guide provided by your riad to help you get your bearings, or to just wander, which can be a great adventure. After a dizzying first day of exploring, it turned out to be no more difficult for me than navigating the streets of an old European city. A couple of recently published books even offer walking tours of the medinas in several languages.

Both the Fez and Marrakech medinas are home to spectacular mosques, medersas (religious schools) and the palaces of the once-rich and powerful. If you're not Muslim, you can't enter some of these sites, but each city has several that are open to people of all faiths, and they are well worth the visit. The Medersa Ben Youseff in Marrakech has been housing young men studying the Koran since the 13th century. More than 900 students lived at the school in its heyday, and you can walk along the rows of compact rooms where the students lived, a few of them furnished as they were hundreds of years ago. The courtyard features walls laced with staggeringly intricate cedar and stucco carving and religious artwork.

The highlight of the Marrakech medina is the Jemaa el-Fna, an open square not unlike an Italian piazza. During daylight hours it's a circus: snake-charmers, medicine men, even gymnastic troupes, all vying for your attention and spare change. It's not just a tourist haunt; most of the crowds surrounding these attractions are locals. When the sun goes down, elaborate food carts are rolled out and the square is turned into the city's largest restaurant, with sizzling lamb, eggplant and snails served up to visitors and Marrakechis elbow to elbow at huge tables. Snails from a street cart in the middle of Morocco might sound like a risky choice, but it all seemed clean and safe.

Restaurant options are somewhat limited in the medinas. While you can find French, Italian and Spanish food in the new cities, the medinas serve the same food they've been serving for centuries. The ubiquitous tagine, named for the clay dish it's cooked and served in, is a stew of lamb or chicken with vegetables. The other common choice is couscous in many varieties. Medina restaurants usually offer both as entrees, and always start with what they call salad, but what is more like an array of tapas. Some dinners come with as many as 10 plates: eggplant, carrots, beans and the like, some hot, some cold, all delicious. Most meals will set you back less than $15 a person.

Your daily itineraries in Morocco will vary. Some days you want to wander endlessly in the medina, others you'll want to visit the Berber villages in the nearby mountains. An hour from Fez are the well-kept ruins of the Roman city of Volubilis, nearly as intact as Pompeii. If you want to get even more exotic, you can spend summer afternoons riding camels in the desert or watching the native Berbers show off their equestrian skills.

But your days can all end the same way and you'll never be bored: You retire to your riad and slip between sheets of Moroccan silk with a glass of cognac in your hand. Arabian nights have never felt this good. ###########################################

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